![]() ![]() These are the cheapest to get ahold of, and do last a long time. The friction is the same either way you set up the device. ![]() ĪTC-XP (left) Basic ATC (right) Variations of Tubular Belay Devices:īasic: The basic ATC just has two identical ovular slots. I wrote up a whole article about ATC-style belay devices, and the pros and cons of climbing and rappelling with them- read it here. ![]() Either side can be used, and they usually create different amounts of friction based on whether they have ridges or not. Discard it before that happens, or flip the device and brake off of the other side. Alternate using each of the two slots when you rappel so you don’t wear through one faster than the other.Īs it wears out, the brake side of the ATC slowly sharpens until it can actually damage a rope. ![]() Much of the wear from rappelling is inflicted on the carabiner, which can save you some money in the long run. A basic ATC is around $15 USD, while a more expensive ATC-Guide or Petzl Reverso is around $20-$30 USD. Tubular Belay Devices are really pretty cheap. Additionally, an ATC can get gummed up by ‘canyon crud’ in especially nasty conditions. Keep that in mind if you decide to rely solely on an ATC as a belay device. Fortunately, I had an extra 8 ring in my pack. This actually happened to me last year while going through a canyon in Zion National Park. If a rope is too thick, it simply won’t fit through the slots. One thing to watch out for is that tubular devices only work with certain rope sizes. Unlike other rappel devices which can be locked off mid-rappel, you can’t really stop and go hands-free. It is released by adjusting the angle of the brake hand upwards towards the device, or by pulling the belay device away from the carabiner.Ī tuber usually won’t stop completely unless the climber/rappeller is very light, so it’s important to secure the brake hand on the rope firmly. When belaying a rock climber or rappelling, the ATC is often pressed against the top of the carabiner, significantly increasing the friction in the system and slowing the rope. The rope feeds into the device, around the carabiner, and then out back through the slot and down towards the braking hand. T he static or dynamic rope is pinched through the slot or slots of the ATC and then clipped through a carabiner. The functionality is essentially identical. The tuber is an improvement on the original Sticht plate, increasing the height of the slot and adding a keeper loop. Pretty much every climbing hardware manufacture, from Petzl to Grivel, has their own version of an ATC. Tubular belay devices have become synonymous with the name “ ATC” (Air Traffic Controller) given them by Black Diamond. Tubular Belay Devicesīest For: belaying trad & sport climbers, multi-pitch climbs, and rappelling The best one for you will likely be a combination of 2 or more used in specific situations. All can be good options for rappelling, though they each have their pros and cons. Different kinds of Belay DevicesĪll of the different styles of belay devices fit into three categories: Tubular, Figure-8, or Assisted Braking. Which belay device is the best for you? This guide will help you decide what you need to be safe. There are a few devices that do well with everything, but it is best to specialize if you know what you will likely be doing. Depending on your intended use and your overall dedication to climbing, rappelling, or canyoneering, the best belay device for you will vary. Over time, climbing gear companies have made slight modifications to the designs, inventing tubers or ATC’s, and even ‘autolocking’ devices like the popular GriGri. The original mass-produced belay device was a sticht plate, followed by a figure-8. There are a lot of different belay devices on the market today, and they each have slightly different applications and benefits. Belay Devices are safe to rappel with, but you need to know how to properly use them. The names belay device and rappel device are almost always used interchangeably. Yes, you can rappel using the vast majority of belay devices. This would inflict serious rope burns, and would definitely result in ground falls.īelay Devices are great for rock climbing, but do they work for rappelling? Without a belay device, the person on the ground would need to hold a rope in their hands to stop a falling climber. When used correctly, a belay device uses friction to reduce the force needed to keep a climber from falling. If you are even the least bit familiar with rock climbing, you know what a belay device is. ![]()
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